What Is An Enzyme Peel?
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Who doesn’t want smooth and glowing skin?
It’s probably what we women want to achieve the most in our ever-evolving skincare routines, which often leads us on a quest to discover innovative tools or treatments that promise to rejuvenate and revitalise.
And to be honest, we are actually quite spoilt for choice when it comes to exfoliation methods to achieve this.
From electric exfoliating brushes, exfoliating scrubs, masks and pastes to chemical peels, now we have the growingly popular enzyme facial, or ‘peel’ - a gentle yet effective method to unveil smoother, brighter skin.
But what exactly is an enzyme peel, and how does it work its magic?
What Is An Enzyme Peel?
Now, we’ve all heard about chemical peels, but if you shudder with visions of red raw skin images flooding your mind when you think of it, enzyme peels are the perfect option as a less aggressive treatment.
An enzyme peel is a cosmetic treatment used to improve the texture and appearance of the skin by exfoliating away dead skin cells.
Dr. Hadley King, a board-certified dermatologist tells Byrdie, “These proteolytic enzymes help to break down proteins—including keratin proteins in the outer layer of the skin. This helps dead skin cells slough off.”
The result? Smoother, softer skin with “decreased discolourations”.
Traditional Chemical Peels vs Enzymatic Peels
While both essentially serve the same purpose - removing dead skin cells and promoting cell turnover to reveal a radiant and smoother skin texture, they differ in their composition, mechanisms of action, and levels of intensity.
Here are the key distinctions between traditional chemical peels and enzyme peels:
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Ingredients: Chemical peels typically use acids such as glycolic acid, salicylic acid, trichloroacetic acid (TCA), or phenol.
The acids in chemical peels vary in strength, and they penetrate the skin to remove the outer layers.
Mechanism of Action: Chemical peels work by inducing controlled damage to the skin, causing the outer layers to peel off.
The depth of penetration depends on the type and concentration of acids used.
Intensity: Chemical peels can range from superficial (mild) to medium and deep peels.
Superficial peels target the outermost layer, while medium and deep peels can reach deeper layers, addressing more significant skin concerns.
Targeted Concerns: Chemical peels are often used to address issues such as fine lines, wrinkles, sun damage, uneven pigmentation, and acne scars.
Recovery Time: Deeper chemical peels may require more extended recovery periods, including peeling and redness, and may involve downtime.
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Ingredients: Enzyme peels use fruit enzymes or plant enzymes, derived from natural sources such as papaya, pineapple, pumpkin or even certain microorganisms.
Mechanism of Action: Enzyme peels work by breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells, promoting exfoliation without the need for abrasive particles or chemicals.
Intensity: Enzyme peels are generally milder than chemical peels and are considered a form of superficial exfoliation.
Targeted Concerns: Enzyme peels are suitable for addressing issues such as dullness, uneven skin tone, and mild texture irregularities.
They are often preferred by individuals with sensitive skin as they tend to be gentler.
Recovery Time: Enzyme peels typically have minimal downtime, and individuals can often resume regular activities shortly after treatment.
Enzyme Peel Benefits
One key advantage of enzyme peels is their ability to target only the outermost layer of the skin, without penetrating too deeply.
This makes them a suitable option for those who want a mild exfoliation or have sensitive skin that may be prone to irritation with stronger chemical peels.
Here are a few examples of enzymes commonly used in peels and their benefits:
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Exfoliation: Papain is a natural exfoliant that helps remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin. This gentle exfoliation can contribute to a smoother and brighter complexion.
Skin Renewal: By breaking down proteins in the outer layer of the skin, papain promotes cell turnover, aiding in the renewal of the skin. This can be particularly beneficial for addressing issues such as dullness and uneven skin tone.
Unclogging Pores: Papain has the ability to unclog pores by removing excess oil, dirt, and debris. This makes it beneficial for individuals with oily or acne-prone skin, as it may help prevent breakouts.
Scar Reduction: Some studies suggest that papain may have wound-healing properties and could potentially help reduce the appearance of scars and blemishes on the skin.
Anti-Inflammatory: Papain exhibits anti-inflammatory properties, which can be helpful for soothing irritated or inflamed skin. This makes it suitable for individuals with sensitive or reactive skin.
Brightening Effect: Regular use of papain can contribute to a more radiant complexion by removing dead skin cells and promoting a healthier skin surface.
Hydration: Papain may assist in improving the absorption of moisturisers and other skincare products, ensuring better hydration for the skin.
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Anti-Aging & Collagen-Boosting Properties: Bromelain also increases collagen, which is vital for maintaining skin elasticity and anti-ageing by improving the skin's texture and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles contributing to a more youthful appearance.
Anti-Inflammatory: Bromelain exhibits anti-inflammatory properties, which can be beneficial for soothing irritated or inflamed skin. It may help reduce redness and swelling, making it suitable for individuals with sensitive or reactive skin.
Reducing Hyperpigmentation: Some studies suggest that bromelain may have skin-brightening effects and could help reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation or dark spots on the skin.
Wound Healing: Bromelain has been studied for its potential to accelerate wound healing. It may assist in reducing swelling and promoting the healing process, making it beneficial for addressing minor skin injuries.
Exfoliation: Bromelain is a proteolytic enzyme, which breaks down proteins into smaller fragments, called peptides and amino acids. This makes bromelain a natural exfoliant that helps remove dead skin cells from the skin's surface.
Unclogging Pores: Bromelain has enzymatic properties that can help unclog pores by breaking down excess oil, dirt, and debris. This makes it beneficial for individuals with oily or acne-prone skin, as it may assist in preventing breakouts.
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Exfoliation: Pumpkin enzyme is a natural exfoliant that contains enzymes like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). These enzymes help to gently exfoliate the skin by breaking down and removing dead skin cells.
Brightening Effect: The exfoliating action of pumpkin enzyme can contribute to a more even skin tone and reduced appearance of dark spots or hyperpigmentation. This brightening effect is particularly useful for those with uneven skin tone.
Antioxidant Properties: Pumpkin is rich in antioxidants, including vitamins A and C. Antioxidants help protect the skin from free radical damage, which can be caused by factors like UV exposure and pollution.
Hydration: Pumpkin contains natural sugars and enzymes that can help hydrate the skin. Incorporating pumpkin enzyme into skincare products may assist in maintaining skin moisture, making it suitable for individuals with dry or dehydrated skin.
Anti-Inflammatory: Pumpkin enzyme exhibits anti-inflammatory properties, which can be beneficial for soothing and calming irritated skin.
Minimising the Appearance of Pores: The exfoliating properties of pumpkin enzyme may help unclog pores and reduce their appearance, contributing to a smoother skin texture.
Vitamin Boost: Pumpkin enzyme is a source of various vitamins and minerals that are beneficial for skin health. Vitamin A, in particular, is known for its role in promoting skin renewal.
Are Enzyme Peels For All Skin Types?
Enzyme peels are generally considered suitable for a variety of skin types, making them a versatile option in skincare. They can be used for:
Normal Skin: Enzyme peels can help maintain and enhance the texture and appearance of normal skin.
Dry Skin: The gentle exfoliation provided by enzyme peels can help remove dead skin cells and promote a smoother skin surface, which is beneficial for individuals with dry skin.
Oily Skin: Enzyme peels can assist in removing excess oil and unclogging pores, making them suitable for individuals with oily or acne-prone skin.
Combination Skin: Enzyme peels are often well-tolerated by individuals with combination skin, as they address multiple skin concerns without causing excessive dryness or irritation.
Sensitive Skin: Enzyme peels are generally considered gentler than some chemical peels, making them a good option for individuals with sensitive skin. However, it’s essential to perform a patch test to ensure compatibility.
How Often Should You Use An Enzyme Peel?
The frequency with which you should use an enzyme peel depends on various factors, including your skin type, the specific product you're using, and your skin's response to the treatment.
Here are three general guidelines to help you determine how often you should use an enzyme peel:
Mild or Sensitive Skin:
If you have sensitive or delicate skin, it’s advisable to use an enzyme peel less frequently, perhaps once a week or every two weeks.
Always start with a patch test to ensure your skin tolerates the product well before incorporating it into your regular routine.
Normal to Combination Skin:
Individuals with normal to combination skin can typically use enzyme peels more frequently, such as once or twice a week.
Pay attention to how your skin responds and adjust the frequency accordingly.
Oily or Acne-Prone Skin:
Those with oily or acne-prone skin may benefit from using enzyme peels more often, up to two to three times a week.
Be cautious not to over-exfoliate, as this can potentially exacerbate oiliness or acne.
How Long Does It Take To See Results From An Enzyme Peel?
The benefits of an enzyme peel can usually be seen immediately after a single use.
Should you continue to use enzyme peels with the frequency according to your skin type as mentioned above, skin issues will continue to improve, but consistency is key for optimal results!
Potential Side Effects Of An Enzyme Peel
As with any treatment, some people may be more sensitive to certain enzymes or other ingredients in the peel so there’s always the potential for side effects.
According to Hedox Clinic Medical Aesthetics, “Enzyme peels may cause irritation such as redness or burning at the time of application or immediately afterwards. You may also experience swelling or crusting for several days after the treatment.”
It’s always a good idea with facial treatments like this to check how your skin will react to it in a non-visual or obvious area.
Dr Aruna Prasad, Consultant Dermatologist & Cosmetologist recommends that you apply as a test patch to one area such as behind the ear and leave it for a couple of minutes, “if there no redness and no itching, you can apply for the full face”.
How Much Does It Cost?
The cost of an enzyme facial peel can vary in the UK, typically ranging from £65 to £100 depending on the clinic and the treatment inclusions.
However, there are many at-home enzyme peels that start as low as £15.
As we’ve explored the intricacies of this natural exfoliation process, from its gentle yet effective mechanisms to its versatility across various skin types, one thing remains clear – the enzyme peel is undoubtedly a star player in the pursuit of radiant, rejuvenated skin.
